Festive Forecast: 2008
by Patrick Swan
Snow in October is a sure sign that winter is now here and the holiday season is fast approaching. With the gloomy economy, it doesn't seem appropriate to start waffling on about ostentatious must-haves, as opposed to what one can add to their wardrobe and what one must do to move everything forward, as change is afoot. Plump furs, rich damask, cashmere, satin and ornate crystal clusters may be the only thing that remain luxe must-haves for those with stealth wealth, however, clever accessorising and even feather trims are equally on trend (whether it be on a coat, bag or shoes) to adjust our style. Careful acquisition of costume jewellery, such as heaps of chains, Deco cuffs or armfuls of bangles, big bejewelled brooches - placed high on the lapel or high on the shoulder of origami-fashioned dresses, skimming the calf - will create a balance that is new and secretly sexy, while giving credence to the shoe or ankle boot which you may have rightly splurged on last year.
Designers such as 3.1 Phillip Lim, Balenciaga, and Moschino on the designer end - and that coveted satin dress from Whistles on the high street - have all made the biggest impact for the holidays, with each re-interpreting the LBD: giving a renewed spirit that some things will last forever. Be it a mini, strapless, knee length or one shoulder, all will look stunning with the return of the ever important stiletto or any Christian Loubertaine possessions. Goth is not dead but softened with lace, chiffon and ruffles, with lengths reviving a true 70s theme, as the Maxi has made a comeback. Look for inspiration from Roksanda Ilincic, Giles, Givenchy and Black Label from Reiss, whose styles accent a high neck for dresses to coats and gives vintage a run for its' money.
Impressive make-up is something we can all make time for - yet back to basics, as is the new direction of mineral make-up, has its festive take firmly established. Start with a simple glow as opposed to a heavy foundation. To give colour, use Laura Mercier mineral cheek powder - applied like kisses of sunshine. For the eyes, create a more luxuriant look with the mineralised palettes of Nars and Mac: both have created polished, sheen shadows for a smoky eye, and with a touch of lilac or dove grey on the brow bone or inner corner, this will be that perfect trick for the eyes for a New Year's Eve party look. Luscious lipsticks and desirable packaging have returned - a pleasure one can never resist, even if your mouth is the only thing you play up, is a touch of Chanel with their berry or ruby red colours. Applied cleverly it can be classic, strong or made to look understated as a stain. Glamour lives!
For the relaxing days between the holidays, denim still reigns, but with a new twist from Alexander Wang's cuff shorts, Diesel's washed mini denim skirt or Stella McCartney's slim leg: all will work with either a 'to the knee' boot, if not 'over the knee' boot. Be it soft buttery suede, patent leather, or any combination with a bit of stretch, it will create 'that leg': the boot is it. If a sales assistant suggests the purchase of renovators or restorators to protect these gems, trust me, it is money well spent. Another great way to take from another season is to add a Lanvin denim blazer or Balenciaga wax denim jacket to a summer dress. Adding a grey coloured boot, as opposed to black, makes sensible dressing practical yet on trend. Loving the new flats? What could be cooler than a Topshop acid washed denim skirt finished off with a jewelled slipper - perfect for time mixing at the pub or with good friends around a fire.
For true ease between parties, and perfect for home entertaining or visiting, the tunic and trouser is ideal. Look out for easy tunics that cinch at the waist to give definition and soften the line for structure, making sure the tunic finishes at the hip line - think mini for a moment, and combine them with a newly reinvented Capri trouser for smaller frames and floor-skimming loose trouser shapes for taller, more elegant lines. Some of my favourites can be found from the likes of Arkis, La Perla, Just Cavalli and Topshop's Unique brand. With easy soft Victorian blouses in abundance, you will find they work perfectly with a peg trouser - the newest shape on offer to add to your wardrobe this season - which will be on trend for Spring/Summer. Make sure you purchase a brogue too, as this is where the fine lines of style dictate what works and what doesn't.
As the younger set are thriving on playful polka dots from Luella, 80s inspirations from Marc Jacobs, and whatever comes from the Kate Moss school of style, price and style are working together. Other notable party frocks to look out for come from the likes of a vintage Diabless dress, dramatic ruffled Atelier Versace gowns and, for a US salutation, a star printed dress from Zuhir Murad. Men matter, and starting from the foot up, one cannot miss the opening of Harry's of London at 59 South Audley Street - a fantastic new shoe shop with his 'classic with a twist' philosophy: this is investment shopping. Not everyone needs to take credit to 'Never-Never Land': trusting a veteran is always a good thing and designer Anthony Price, who has in the past created designs for such musical legends as Sir Mick Jagger, Bryan Ferry and Duran Duran, has created a collection for Topman. Although his collection is called Priceless, the name is misleading - with drummer-boy coats and slim suits costing a very reasonable £100 and £180 respectively; one can make savings without compromising style.
A renewed influx of 'preppy style' has arrived this season, as clean-cut outfits make their way off the catwalks of labels such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Etro, and find their way into our wardrobes. Without missing a beat, the new Original Penguin flagship store in London's Covent Garden has opened. With a classic celebrity following in its past, it was only a matter of time for this re-invention of golf-inspired prints, that will add a twist under the new staple cardigan.
From a new menswear label by Petra Ecclestone, the former model and daughter of billionaire Formula One's Bernie Ecclestone, is now available at Harrods. Her collaboration with Savile Row tailor Edward Sexton, who has made suits for the Beatles and the Rolling Stones, as well as the Kennedys, has a subtle muted colour palette of brown and beige, with daring attention to detail that is very noticeable on the shoulder pads, collars and in the streamlined silhouette; all paying particular attention to what luxury fabrics do best - create form.
What to get for the man who has everything - always a Porsche, or a matching watch at least. Three new models (named appropriately Makara, Copper and Night Blue) are designed by Swiss watchmaker Eterna for the Dashboard range - all in metallic colours to compliment their titanium casings; though they may be pricy they will remain an asset. Porsche Design was established by Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche in 1972 and now encompasses designs from fragrances to trainers.
So, even if you feel compelled to crunch your numbers, there are many good reasons not to crunch your style as a new era is upon us, and if we look and feel good about ourselves, we prosper ... and, of course, we have Cruise/Preview Spring 09 - my next report - to look forward to.
Patrick Swan is a Hair and Makeup Artist, Stylist