Spring Style
by Patrick Swan
Some call it Depression chic. Alberta Ferretti's tiered 20's inspired cocktail dress typifies the current mood. On the other hand, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel refers to this latest era as Modest chic with his pared down re-invention of simple lines that put Coco on the fashion map. Lagerfeld has refined his skirts to a subdued midi-length with the subtle touch of multi-string pearls. One thing is for certain, we are living on the fringe of a new beginning this spring, fringing on everything from dresses, bags, and shoes to even earrings.
Bright colours banish gloom with French blue, mustard orange, cerise and garden green in abundance. Burberry's Prorsum yellow cropped, classic-button trench over a tiered sack dress typifies the celebration of colour for Spring 2009. If you feel colour is too much to handle, then check out Jill Sander's new shop on Bond Street with its soft blacks and whites that are clean and timeless and definitely worth the investment.
Geometric or architectural shapes also take centre stage this spring, challenging proportions and volumes as refined tailoring is seen at Lanvin, Alexander McQueen and Fendi. Martin Margiela, with new premises on Bruton Street, has exaggerated shoulders in rich cerise with geometric volume on top. This is in conjunction with Dolce & Gabbana's firm emphasis on slim skirts chasing past the knee, while Christopher Kane is dabbling with shorter lengths using eye-popping, leopard prints. Even Pringle's abstract printed versions in black, soft violet and white, prove that these are trends can slim any silhouette.
Spring accessories such as bangles, necklaces and earrings are big, bold and chunky, and will give any simple outfit that 'twist'. This trend will follow into next autumn. Belts remain firmly at the waist with elasticised, wide or narrow buckles, giving the effortless sack dress a completely diverse feel.
Youth inspiration from Mark Jacobs blossoms with delicate small florals to whimsical touches that are fresh, while continuing a strong focus on the waist. Meanwhile bold plain prints, harlequin stripes and bright patterns can be found as part of Vivienne Westwood's Red, Gold and Anglomania labels. Tory Burch's nautical theme is both preppy and edgy, as she moves from celebrity to designer.
The trouser is being re-invented: hybrid fabrics challenge classic denim, while simple cropped cargo styles, skimming at the ankle, show how the peg shape is being interpreted. If you can pull off a high-waisted, cigarette-shape, ankle-length trouser, team it with sheer geometric loose fitting tops like those that Andy & Debb have introduced. Whistles has created some of the best straight, wide and cropped trousers for women in cotton twill and silk , and at the same time Calvin Klein has focused his cropped, pencil-trouser in a silk/viscose sheen with his trademarked brilliance of technical fluidity. Women over 5'7" tall, especially if they have a hip, should focus on a trouser that is wide and full. If however you're under 5'7" then the Audrey Hepburn slim-cut Capri shapes teamed with a slash neck, crop-top have made a welcome return. Both can be finished off with a ballerina style shoe or cube heel sandal that can be found everywhere.
Last summer heralded in the maxi, and this spring we see that interpreted into a sheer goddess silhouette varying from haltered to Togo necklines. To give a new edge to last summer's maxi, team it with a very long, textured cardigan for a 70's feel. Safari-inspired animal prints such as zebra or leopard are another clever way of interpreting the Marrakesh trend into your wardrobe. One thing is for certain - cleverly sized prints can take pounds off the parts of your body. The rule is smaller prints for smaller frames, while larger prints dictate presence.
Dressing down is taking the eighties to Eighth Street NYC as shoulder pads, over-sizing, and yes, ripped denim are being re-interpreted. Biker-style jackets over sheer tunic-length tops hitting right at the thigh of skin tight, hot red jean-cut trousers, arouse a softer edge while you can add a touch of sophistication with a slim or straight leg and finish the look with a peep-toe platform.
James Pierce, Sophomore, Ella Moss and Enza Costa have great basics for all your denim smart/casual looks at Selfridges. Liberty's Women's department opened on February 14th and their contemporary department's denim range is terrific. I am still convinced that J brand, James Hudson, Suzie Radcliffe and Current/Elliot are the denim brands that make the most of any woman's body.
Daytime casual is different from smart casual, so embrace the difference. Sleeveless, washed to shreds denim jackets make for a perfect summer gilet over tiny floral-print tees with biker or cowboy cropped boots, making any length skirt work. If you have great toned legs then denim cut offs turned up to the thigh finished off with soft pointed cowboy boots, and yes, more fringe, pushes this trend as far as it can go. All this is perfect for thrift shopping, if not the continuing trend to swap shop...you may be amazed what you have in your closet that can be traded or tailored to create your own sense of eccentricity.
Casual accessories are multi-length fine chain necklaces with the occasional trinket to add personality, if not individuality. Keep the hair close to the head in a striking ponytail, or sport a heavy fringe to make the most of round lens shades.
It is a fact: shoes can make or break any look, and this season's key updates include Pied A Terre's buckle-detailed, biker boot, Just Cavalli's gem-detailled strappy sandal, Diesel's gold metal heel, strappy sandal and Lotus'cut-out, peep toe shoe/boot. All are all great choices for denim looks. For more sophistication try KG's concealed platform court shoes, Carvella's platform wedges, or YSL's metallic sandals for wide leg trousers. Also, Reiss' cross-over the front of the foot shoe in Dove, or Karen Millen's block-heeled court shoe, make the geometric trend work. To finish almost any look, clutch style bags clearly are the bag of choice and can be as big or slim as your outfit will dictate.
The return to sobriety is the easiest way to view what men will be finding on offer this spring. It is retro with a twist. Investing in key pieces that you will want to wear for seasons to come is the message. Two button, wider lapel jackets, short or classic trenches, cardigan and fedoras are here to stay. I am even seeing this in the Autumn 09 shows that have just finished, as men crave the security of the old and familiar. Reviving classic pieces is clearly the new definition, as men will look back to periods when fashion reminds them of opportunity.
With a new American president and First Lady in the White House, one can see that President Obama dresses like the perfect Executive and it is clear to see he has it right. His slim, tailored, sixties-inspired silhouettes and well thought-out shirts and ties command respect - and that is what every employment prospect will be expected to do. Textured fabric in suiting is very much on the uptake, so look for textured pinstripes and windowpane checks. Men cannot be expected to be taken seriously if they do not wear a tie to any meeting, so look upon this as part of your personal rebranding.
Look out for clever reinterpretations of the classic pole shirt as it becomes slimmer fitting, as seen from Ralph Lauren and Lacoste. Check out some very new names on the scene such as Christian Blanken with his paper finished clothes, Hawaiian prints from Soar, "futuristic street wear" from Tim Hamilton, formal tailoring from Casely-Hayford to a very relaxed elegance ushered in by Cold Method. Dover Street, Brown's Men's store, and Topshop's TopMan newly expanded floor at Oxford Street store, are all worth checking out.
Casual looks find distressed moods taking over, with frayed treatment to jackets and trousers - but just a touch - as the look is not tramp, especially if you mix in a plain or check shirt to give a sense of individuality. All Saint's continues to blend rock with chic and one can find many uses for the Enclose cardigan which is a very functioning piece.
Outer-wear updates include the bomber jacket in leather, nylon or waxed cotton, with double zips up the front as well as on the sleeve. Another classic making a big return is the Barracuda jacket. It made James Dean an icon, so teaming it with a well-cut denim from Acme, Nudie or Levi's 505 brings this into the new era.
When the sun comes out the Bermuda short replaces the cargo short and that is a welcome change as men have struggled for too long over this played out standard. Colours are anything but drab, and the palette ranges from vivid oranges and greens, to turquoises, sky blues and aquas, so take advantage of it!
Playing with proportion is the main update, more than ever before, and playing with sheer, layered, wide-neck to loose crew-necks over a comfy sheer cardigan are all well designed by Unconditional, and toughened up with a structured jacket by Kilgour at their second space on 5 Saville Row. Play this with soft ice cream shades or be daring by mixing hot pink with muted grey or soft white jackets or trousers. All brilliantly executed at Reiss.
Accessories include round "John Lennon" style sunglasses to early Graham Coxon of Blur-inspired frames, and if any money can be spared, it will go on a pair of Lanvin red-and-bronze, high-top trainers. Men's hair is taking a new direction too as the short back and sides 40's movie star classic quiffs replaces the shaggy look, and a clean shave is now politically correct if not a clear indication that times have changed!
Patrick Swan is a Hair and Makeup Artist, Stylist